Comments on: InfraRED Fujifilm X Pro 1

By: Luigi Barbano

Luigi Barbano — Mon, 09 Jan 2017 18:30:44 +0000

In reply to David. The dimensions are 2,38cm by 3,13cm and the thickness is 1mm. If you think to do it, when you arrive at the hot mirror, you will find a seal between the filter and the cleaning system glass, if you detach the seal carefully, starting with a cutter under it in a corner, you will be able to reattach it to the new filter and keep the dust removal system working. The dust removal system does not need to be desoldered as suggested in some videos, you can just flip it on a side an so will be possible to reassemble it. If you need other suggestions just ask, so you will avoid some of my mistakes and save time in research.

By: David

David — Mon, 09 Jan 2017 18:12:53 +0000

Hi,
What are the dimensions for the filter that you measured to be cut to size for the x-pro1?
Many thanks.

By: Luigi Barbano

Luigi Barbano — Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:03:10 +0000

In reply to Vic Chapman.

Thank you Vic.
Thanks for your lens suggestions, I’m actually waiting (I hope will arrive tomorrow) for the 35 1.4
Yes the 14mm is ideal, I love that lens also not for infrared. I was very surprised by the general quality of Fuji.

By: Vic Chapman

Vic Chapman — Mon, 22 Aug 2016 14:52:03 +0000

Thank you for a very useful article. You have steadier hands than I to do it yourself. I couldn’t bear to sacrifice my X-Pro1 which I still use more than my X-T1 so I bought an unused X-E1 from someone who only wanted the cheap lenses from a camera/lens bundle offer. I paid only £140 for a new but discontinued X-E1 which I then sent (via eBay) to Isaac Szabo in USA who converted it and including return postage I paid just £160. It was necessary for me to include various copies of dated documentation as directed by Isaac to avoid import/export/VAT duties but all went smoothly with less than 3 weeks turnaround. I had mine converted to 580nm since I already had 720nm filters and 850 B&W IR filters which can now be added to the lens with no effect on exposure (720nm) and only 1 – 1.5 stops loss with the 850nm so easily hand hold-able still. Although the results from 580nm (super-colour) are eye-grabbing they are also quite strong. I actually find myself mostly shooting 720nm IR because it gives more delicate colours and converts more readily to B&W which saves me swapping filters. (On this point – have you tried processing one for colour and a copy for B&W and layering the two then varying the opacity to taste – some good effects to be had). Like yourself I’ve found the 14mm to be ideal and I rarely use anything else unless to narrow the FoV to avoid people in frame. However, it is worth noting that the Fuji 23, 35 (f1.4 vers) and 55-200 also work well. The 16mm has a slight fixable hotspot. The other Fuji primes and zooms all have troublesome hotspots but I’ve not tried the 35mm f2, 50-140 or 16-55 f2.8 yet.
Old film lenses – most Minolta/Minolta Rokkor and even better Olympus Zuiko lenses are good for IR. I especially like the Minolta 50mm f2 and 24mm f2.8 models but my favourite legacy lenses are Oly Zuiko 28mm f3.5 and 50mm f1.4 (anything but wide open although sometimes that bit of f1.4 flare adds an extra air of ethereal-ism to the result. Surprisingly, old film lenses appear to be more generally use-able for IR at smaller apertures than Fuji lenses – apart from the wonderful Fuji 14mm which is use-able all the way but with such a wide angle lens I’m happy to set f5.6 – f8 and fix the focus distance to 5ft which gives me sharpness from my feet to infinity